How about lowering the boost? I mean is it really necessary causing potentially irreversible damage then having to start all over from scratch? So y'all are definitely successful no doubt that's been proven but clearly there are just 1 too many minor details that is costing you time and money. If the boost was lowered it would stress the puppy less. And in the event something were to fail it wouldn't be as catastrophic/costly. How much does my opinion matter? None With that being said turn up the boost to the max and continue to gather footage because honestly, whether it's a good day or a not so good day, that's why we're all hear for. Good luck fellas.
maibe support the front and the rear of the box with an engine plate , that way there isnt any weight hanging off the clutch housing or the driveshafts / diff torquing up the box against the engine plate in the middle , during the wheelie the rear wheels did come off the ground and landed spinning on the sticky stuff , verry good chance the ting was allready broken , goo thing the belt broke , think running that a second time wouldve hurted the gears inside it and probably the shifting mecanism too maibe you can make a deal with fasterprom and trade youre twin system with the header for their single one on the smart car
Would think the wheelie had some to do with it. If you can, ask Kevin at KSR what you could to make that stronger without going billet. Dude knows his stuff and is part of Cleetus gang.
I wonder if they make a proximity sensor or radar sensor that would fire down, it would prob be able to record height and arrest spark as needed. Like using a parking sensor but down facing. Seems like it would be way more simple than the laser setup. Lasers are pretty sensitive and I bet they dont like the violent shaking of a drag car. Just an idea.
Hi Kyle, you need to make the engine and gearbox part of the roll cage to make a stronger chassis structure. It's like starting from scratch with the chassis but it might be the right way to fix the problem. I hope the MR2 continues on the tracks breaking records
Should maybe put a heavy-duty splitter on the front like you did on the hatch. You can make it modular to include removable weights. That way the weight would be about as far foward it can get n give u more options as far as the weight you can add or subtract.
Reviewing the video of the infamous wheelie, I think it was that cause the bell housing to cracked, it landed on that metal plate and had a tiny crack...im pretty sure! Since the 4 tires was off the ground
the "Cursesuader" new name for the mr2. Perhaps its too stiff having that mid-plate on! or just use some bushings at the end so it will give it a lil flexibility! who knows but give it a try...fact is: it was holding several passes, so by throwing a lil bushing will help it may be?
New to your channel, been watching your early stuff and new stuff. I don’t see Charlie on the newer content. What happened to Charlie? He was OG correct?
The mid plate should probably be all the way around the bell housing and not just to the bottom? Or is it attached to the top as well? Hope you guys figure it out.
Guy sends you a solution for the willy that pulls timing... Kyle: nah I'm going to just keep sending it... Being the first is never easy, and as the good old say goes... failing is the path to success.
Two thoughts I've had about keeping the front end down at launch are as follows: 1) If you strictly are adding dead weight to the front, make it so it's a lead slug or ball inside a tube, running as far back the length of the car as you want the weight to end up once you have traveled a particular speed or distance down the track. Maximum weight starts on the nose, but moves backward by g-force as you accelerate, to where you want it, weighing the nose down at the beginning, but sliding backward and being slowed/stopped with some adjustability, generating a force which pulls the nose down at a tunable time, according to where during launch it stops moving rearward, kind of like an automatic, momentary tap of the brakes. Angling the tube from as low as possible in the front, up as high as works best once dialed. Any angular adjustability should add some tunablility and make returning the weight to the front easier. Use springs or shock cord or something to stop and reverse the force and direction of the weight, in a controlled way, moving it back toward the front. Make a ramrod to force the weight the rest of the way forward, from the rear, to ensure it is as far forward as possible at next launch. 2) If you want to maximize the weight you need to add to the front, duct powerful, high CFM/low-weight fan/s in the front compartment, so that it sucks large amounts of air from beneath the car, up through the hood/decklid. Straight at the bottom for maximum suction and slightly raked backward at the hood exit for reduced drag and propulsion. Shut it off after launch and reduce drag by using electric rams to close the metal doors you cut out of the hood for ducting.
If I had to guess I’d say the suspension being upgraded transmitted the shock load of the gear change to the bell housing. The old suspension rubbers would have absorbed some of the shock.
I don't get that height sensor hype. Wouldn't it be easier to build wheelie bars and get them to work. Around here even 8,5s street class cars run them and they are FR drivetrain cars (old datsuns, toyotas, volvos and euro fords)
Are the motor and trans mounts solid? Because if not the mid plate is doing all their jobs and taking 100% of the shock. I would put bushings where it mounts to the chassis.
Does the mr2 have solid engine mounts? If not then that mid plate is basically acting as a solid engine mount and taking all the stress from trying to shoot the car to the moon...
It wasn't caused by the wheelie you bunch of dummies, its was caused by the front end slamming the ground when it came down! Get ahold of me if you have any more questions!!! If you wanna prevent anymore wheelies, grease the rear tires! That's all the tricks I'm gonna share with you without being on payroll "Super Dave"
Its the lack of knowledge i think. I use to watch this channel alot but it seems like he gets one pass and the car breaks. Every time. A lot of go fast parts buts no knowledge of how there supposed to go together.
Dude, drop the stupid weights and get rear wheelie bars.
Kyle you need to do this to the mr2 nlname.info/project/video/raCx027Id5GPgGg
All the best Bro. hope to see MR2 back in action.
How about lowering the boost? I mean is it really necessary causing potentially irreversible damage then having to start all over from scratch? So y'all are definitely successful no doubt that's been proven but clearly there are just 1 too many minor details that is costing you time and money. If the boost was lowered it would stress the puppy less. And in the event something were to fail it wouldn't be as catastrophic/costly. How much does my opinion matter? None With that being said turn up the boost to the max and continue to gather footage because honestly, whether it's a good day or a not so good day, that's why we're all hear for. Good luck fellas.
Like breaking a Honda transmission is a new thing. Comon problem. Replace it with a stronger one. Move on.
We want that world record man set that beast up and get that record you can do it !
Didn't expect that? Have you seen your channel at all?
build a fan car under the front of the car.
Be so sweet if you just stuffed a J32 in it
I think riveting a thin sheet metal underneath would cut down so much drag and kill that pocket of air in the front
Put tha envelope on the GEO. HONDA MOTOR+VW muffler, and have you self a flying object. Keep up good content BigBoi. DSM#☝
Get a set of scales. It will give you a benchmark that you can work from.
haha the space X tune
time for a Lamborghini nose spoiler
Buusted Boiz ???
Sounds like they took the alternator belt off at the track🤔
for sure it was the wheelie, that was wild
12:40 Music at the end? Always hear it, never know if its a full track or just a custom end tune?
maibe support the front and the rear of the box with an engine plate , that way there isnt any weight hanging off the clutch housing or the driveshafts / diff torquing up the box against the engine plate in the middle , during the wheelie the rear wheels did come off the ground and landed spinning on the sticky stuff , verry good chance the ting was allready broken , goo thing the belt broke , think running that a second time wouldve hurted the gears inside it and probably the shifting mecanism too maibe you can make a deal with fasterprom and trade youre twin system with the header for their single one on the smart car
Would think the wheelie had some to do with it. If you can, ask Kevin at KSR what you could to make that stronger without going billet. Dude knows his stuff and is part of Cleetus gang.
On the new bell housing before you transplant it I would cnc some gussets up and re·in·force it
Pretty sure slamming the car down hard is what caused the bell housing to crack.
The nut on your shoot release was turning when you were 2 stepping. Idk if its supposed to but incase its not tighten that bitch up lol
so how much longer till you quit fuckin around and just get wheelie bars? lol
Wheelie bars kyle!!!!
Does a wheelie bar put you in a different class? Why don't you put one on to control the nose coming up?
Would still love to see it with wheelie bars!!
3agte is the solution of all yours problems
Please add ducting to the intercooler! My ocd can't take it
6:50, it was at this moment he realized he f***** up
Ruby engine??
I wonder if they make a proximity sensor or radar sensor that would fire down, it would prob be able to record height and arrest spark as needed. Like using a parking sensor but down facing. Seems like it would be way more simple than the laser setup. Lasers are pretty sensitive and I bet they dont like the violent shaking of a drag car. Just an idea.
Wheelie bar . for the trackk.... !!!
Too many ugga duggas on the bell housing
1. wyatt is a calming and sensible part of chan✅ 2. I really am here to see Leslie bounce off a jetski
You can go ahead and send me that AEM when you're done with it...I'll put it to good use!
Race cars always find a weak spot, fix and find another one. Good luck 🍀👍 you guys, love the channel.
Back In the day the bell housing would’ve been done
Can you lighten the rear any like a aftermarket k or tube rear k?
This was a good time to promote a “ Wyatt get the tool box “ t shirt 😂😂
move the back wheels back a few inches.
Holy crap...time for a billet bell-housing/ tube front end 4-link and 9"...lol
Boostedboiz plz keep it twin turbo I think it has alot more potential even if its compounding off each other I feel it has more
Hi Kyle, you need to make the engine and gearbox part of the roll cage to make a stronger chassis structure. It's like starting from scratch with the chassis but it might be the right way to fix the problem. I hope the MR2 continues on the tracks breaking records
Should maybe put a heavy-duty splitter on the front like you did on the hatch. You can make it modular to include removable weights. That way the weight would be about as far foward it can get n give u more options as far as the weight you can add or subtract.
I think every youtuber that has a facebook *ding* noise should be demonitized. lol
jb weld and go again for the next meet.
Please do that outro every time. 😂
Please go to motec it’ll change your life
please keep the twins! just easy on the full sends. dial in the launch first then slowly crank her up. love this build
Keep your head up Kyle.
Bro just fab up some wheelie bars haha
Could that bellhousing plate cauce problem? Hard mounting and if it flex it could cause unusual stress to bellhousing?
Dont believe 2nd fastest. No way he knows every person out their who has the same setup and is making better or faster passes. Shitty driver
Reviewing the video of the infamous wheelie, I think it was that cause the bell housing to cracked, it landed on that metal plate and had a tiny crack...im pretty sure! Since the 4 tires was off the ground
the "Cursesuader" new name for the mr2. Perhaps its too stiff having that mid-plate on! or just use some bushings at the end so it will give it a lil flexibility! who knows but give it a try...fact is: it was holding several passes, so by throwing a lil bushing will help it may be?
What’s the advantage of a big single over twins?!
If the mr2 not boost by gear you should try setting that up
I wanna see the lude in florida
Did you ever see the other mr2s hitting faster times take a look dude get some love
New to your channel, been watching your early stuff and new stuff. I don’t see Charlie on the newer content. What happened to Charlie? He was OG correct?
Why no wheels bars ?
Wheelie bars
You could try to get more support points to the plate maybe to the other half of the trans
Bye Wyatt
@ 6:38 couldn't tell if he was playin then looked like Wyatt was smiling....guess that was a grimace
The mid plate should probably be all the way around the bell housing and not just to the bottom? Or is it attached to the top as well? Hope you guys figure it out.
Byyyyyeeeee Wyatt
Guy sends you a solution for the willy that pulls timing... Kyle: nah I'm going to just keep sending it... Being the first is never easy, and as the good old say goes... failing is the path to success.
As much as you boys have accomplished already I have faith you'll get her back where she needs to be and even faster...
🎶POP UP UP AND DOWN HEADLIGHTS 🎶
time for wheelie bars
Im not trying to look at your face
Your in our prayers hoho how
Should've bought a Volvo 🙂
Honestly I’m over mr2 content it’s a cool car but it’s been nothing but it past year and half
Someone finally said it!!
Two thoughts I've had about keeping the front end down at launch are as follows: 1) If you strictly are adding dead weight to the front, make it so it's a lead slug or ball inside a tube, running as far back the length of the car as you want the weight to end up once you have traveled a particular speed or distance down the track. Maximum weight starts on the nose, but moves backward by g-force as you accelerate, to where you want it, weighing the nose down at the beginning, but sliding backward and being slowed/stopped with some adjustability, generating a force which pulls the nose down at a tunable time, according to where during launch it stops moving rearward, kind of like an automatic, momentary tap of the brakes. Angling the tube from as low as possible in the front, up as high as works best once dialed. Any angular adjustability should add some tunablility and make returning the weight to the front easier. Use springs or shock cord or something to stop and reverse the force and direction of the weight, in a controlled way, moving it back toward the front. Make a ramrod to force the weight the rest of the way forward, from the rear, to ensure it is as far forward as possible at next launch. 2) If you want to maximize the weight you need to add to the front, duct powerful, high CFM/low-weight fan/s in the front compartment, so that it sucks large amounts of air from beneath the car, up through the hood/decklid. Straight at the bottom for maximum suction and slightly raked backward at the hood exit for reduced drag and propulsion. Shut it off after launch and reduce drag by using electric rams to close the metal doors you cut out of the hood for ducting.
Could’ve done more damage so not really 3 steps back better catch it now than the whole thing blow up on the track
If I had to guess I’d say the suspension being upgraded transmitted the shock load of the gear change to the bell housing. The old suspension rubbers would have absorbed some of the shock.
JB weld it
I don't get that height sensor hype. Wouldn't it be easier to build wheelie bars and get them to work. Around here even 8,5s street class cars run them and they are FR drivetrain cars (old datsuns, toyotas, volvos and euro fords)
Seems to me like a set of wheelie bars would solve the problem.
Im sure thats from the wheelie. it bent the chassis then cracked the bell housing.
Damn, things broke. Love the channel
I love Wyatt, I miss every time the camera hit him it was “Sup fuckers” 🤣😂
FUELTECH is the way🇺🇸
straight cut gears just singin, i love it
Part 2, swapping everything into the red mr2
Are the motor and trans mounts solid? Because if not the mid plate is doing all their jobs and taking 100% of the shock. I would put bushings where it mounts to the chassis.
Does the mr2 have solid engine mounts? If not then that mid plate is basically acting as a solid engine mount and taking all the stress from trying to shoot the car to the moon...
On the twin ebay's is the big thing about those 8's that I find special.....👏👏👏
165 trans split in half and didn't notice that's quality right their
I’m sure there is a reason, but why not wheelie bars??
nlname.info/project/video/jnCy2m2slbJ_k30
It wasn't caused by the wheelie you bunch of dummies, its was caused by the front end slamming the ground when it came down! Get ahold of me if you have any more questions!!! If you wanna prevent anymore wheelies, grease the rear tires! That's all the tricks I'm gonna share with you without being on payroll "Super Dave"
Should turbo my 06 honda pilot 😂
You are in the middle of the season arent you? If you pull it for the big work now it will be it for the season. Yeah it was the wheelie for sure!
Ok so now is the time to set the mr2 up for the record and shut the h8trz up .
Take a page from Cleeter... make a shirt deal out of this boo boo and sell it to support the mr2
"it would have helped" "but it would have taken so much time to get it setup" bro come on all you have is time youtube is your job
Its the lack of knowledge i think. I use to watch this channel alot but it seems like he gets one pass and the car breaks. Every time. A lot of go fast parts buts no knowledge of how there supposed to go together.
Since the white mr2 will get a different set up, throw the current into the red mr2 lol